So it’s time to replace the clutch on my 1999 Porsche 911 (996) Carrara 2 Cabriolet. It has done its job and lasted 11 years and 7ok miles. I made a few calls and did some research online and found that I should also replace my flywheel and rear main seal (RMS) at the same time. The rear main seal on the 996 is notorious for leaking and if mine is in even the slightest amount, it will be fixed. Luckily, it is easy to do when you’re replacing the clutch and the part is really cheap.
In my research I found that if I ordered the OEM clutch and flywheel it would run me about $1,600 for the parts. I did some poking around and found that for about the same price, I could upgrade both my clutch and flywheel to higher-performing parts. I found both on VividRacing.com.
Flywheel:
The original flywheel is a dual-mass piece that is great if you want to drive like an old man. But, this is a Porsche. I drive the snot out of the thing. I found an AASCO Motorsports single-mass lightweight flywheel that is 50% lighter (13 lbs) than the original. It can be used with the OEM clutch or an upgraded clutch which I’ll be using. Removing 13 pounds of rotating mass from my drivetrain should really improve throttle response. In part 2, I’ll provide some before and after videos to demonstrate the difference.
For the clutch, I’m replacing my, now slipping, OEM unit with a SPEC Stage 2 kit. The kit features a pure Kevlar disc with steel backing. It offers a higher torque capacity and longer life than the original. Since I like to autocross my car and, at times, enjoy experiencing full throttle acceleration on to freeways, I figured the stage 2 would better fit my driving style. It is also good for up to 375 wheel hp which is perfect. My current engine is stock with 300 hp but, over the next year or so I’ll be adding a new intake, ECU, and exhaust which should put me in the range of about 350 hp.
Unfortunately my clutch is too far gone at this point to demonstrate any differences between the two via video. You’ll just have to take my word for the difference.
So, if you’re looking to replace any part of your engine, exhaust or drivetrain, check out your aftermarket options. You might be surprised, as I was, at how inexpensive upgrades are compared to OEM replacements.






{ 4 comments… read them below or add one }
how many labor hours did this clutch / flywheel / RMS replacement take?
checking out vivdracing right now.
It’s about 6-8 hours. They have a lot to remove. The RMS doesn’t really add any time as the transmission is already out. Also, you don’t “have” to replace the flywheel but, it is recommended. I’ll be writing my followup post soon, but so far, I’ve really noticed a big difference in clutch “bite” and throttle response. I took some before and after video footage and it looks like it’s 1 second quicker from 1,000 to 7,000 and back to 1,000 RPM.
good share, great article, very usefull for us…thank you
Thanks for sharing this.